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In what seems to be a genuine concern of the effects of radon emissions in residential homes, a certain website from a non-profit organization out of Houston has made it a point to imply without scientific proof, that natural stone could be a major contributor of radon in a household.

From what may be perceived on the surface as perhaps another “going green” ad campaign, seems to be a different slant on the ongoing battle of the engineered stone manufacturers against natural stone.

You can rad more about that [URL=”http://nsraweb.com/index.php/Newsflash2/Radon_In_Granite_Causes_Cancer.html”]here[/URL].

The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests remain in your home for two days to 90 days, depending on the device. “Charcoal canisters,” “alpha track,” “electret ion chamber,” “continuous monitors,” and “charcoal liquid scintillation” detectors are most commonly used for short-term testing. Because radon levels tend to vary from day to day and season to season, a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level. If you need results quickly, however, a short-term test followed by a second short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix your home.

How To Use a Test Kit:

Testing is easy and should only take a few minutes of your time.

Follow the instructions that come with your test kit. If you are doing a short-term test, close your windows and outside doors and keep them closed as much as possible during the test. Heating and air-conditioning system fans that re-circulate air may be operated. Do not operate fans or other machines which bring in air from outside. Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system or small exhaust fans operating only for short periods of time may run during the test. If you are doing a short-term test lasting just 2 or 3 days, be sure to close your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test, too. You should not conduct short-term tests lasting just 2 or 3 days during unusually severe storms or periods of unusually high winds. The test kit should be placed in the lowest lived-in level of the home (for example, the basement if it is frequently used, otherwise the first floor). It should be put in a room that is used regularly (like a living room, playroom, den or bedroom) [B]but not your kitchen or bathroom[/B]. Place the kit at least 20 inches above the floor in a location where it won’t be disturbed - away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls. Leave the kit in place for as long as the package says. Once you’ve finished the test, reseal the package and send it to the lab specified on the package right away for analysis. You should receive your test results within a few weeks.

We can start with the simplest of questions asked every time we visit almost any store – paper or plastic? Of course, this is a huge debate and has been for quite some time. Lets look at them one at a time.

Plastic bags are made from petroleum. Yep, you guessed it – oil. Now to be fair it must be mentioned that plastic is made of a by-product of oil refining.

However, it accounts for approximately 4% of the worlds total oil production. That may not sound like a lot, but when you stop and think about it that is a great deal of oil.

Like paper, plastic bags are recyclable. Unfortunately, it usually is not and simply winds up in a landfill. Plastic does not compost like paper does. It does not breakdown over time and 20 years from now, that plastic bag that you sent to the landfill will still be there. Some stores are actually giving credit to people who re-use their plastic bags, but bottom line is, even if you are recycling your plastic, it can only be remelted and remolded a specific number of times before it winds up in the landfill anyway. And then, yes you guessed it again, it is going to be there for another 20 years.

To be fair, there are down sides to using paper as well. Paper uses a lot of natural resources to make. Not only do we consume vast amounts of fuel to run the trucks that get to and from the trees, the equipment necessary for loggers to fell the trees also uses a lot of fuel. Currently most fuel is still made from non-renewable sources. There is an incredible amount of work and time that goes into taking trees down and processing them into paper.

But looking on the positive side, more and more tree farms are being planted for the sole purpose of eventually using them for paper products and other wood based materials. The environmentalists are also ensuring that here in the U.S. at least, multiple alternatives are being sought for fuel to run the equipment and we are learning everyday about more renewable sources of energy to run the equipment needed to take trees down.

Even more positive, paper is not only recyclable it is 100% biodegradable. If it does make its way to a landfill, it will eventually decompose and be returned to the soil. More people are recycling paper everyday. You can even toss it directly into your own composting bin and next year it will be part of the soil you use in your garden or yard. Nearly every major (and many minor) community nationwide has paper-recycling areas where not nearly as many have those for recycling plastics.

You have made your decision. You are doing the environmentally friendly thing to do and are using paper when checking out at the grocery store rather than plastic. This is wonderful. You have also taken other major steps as well to ensure we have environmentally friendly materials in your home. When redoing those floors, you decided that bamboo flooring or some form of natural stone was the better choice - to man made carpeting. All of the newer appliances you have purchased are energy saving and cost effective.

So I have to ask, why do you still have those fake, plastic based and laminated countertops in the kitchen and the bathroom? Formica may be pretty and they can now make it to actually look almost like granite, which you love, but it is still not natural and is still a man made product that is going to live in the landfill for the next 20 years – not decomposing or helping the environment at all. Isn’t it time for you to change that and make your entire home “green” and environmentally friendly?

DuPont™ Corian® was created for a lifetime of easy care. Just follow the simple guidelines listed here to help you keep your Corian® surfaces looking fresh. Your Welcome Kit will provide you with the tips to help you maintain your new Corian® installation for years to come.

Routine Care of Your Corian® Countertop There are three types of Corian® countertop finishes: matte/satin, semi-gloss and high-gloss*. Most countertops are finished with a matte/satin finish. All Corian® sinks have a matte/satin finish. (*Contact your local Corian® sales expert if you are uncertain what type of finish is on your countertop.)

Soapy water, ammonia based cleaners (not window cleaners as they can leave a waxy build up that may dull the surface) or commercially available solid surface cleaners will remove most dirt and residue from all types of finishes. Stubborn residue will require a little stronger cleaner.

Follow the recommendations below to properly clean your countertop and sink.

Experience has shown that a film builds up on the surface if water is left to dry on the countertop. This film will dull the look of the countertop making the finish appear blotchy and uneven. To prevent build up of the film, it is very important to wipe the countertop completely dry after spills and cleaning.

Some colors of Corian® may require more frequent cleaning to maintain a uniform finish. Darker colors tend to require more attention than lighter colors. Over time, even with proper care, your countertop will acquire a patina, changing the appearance of the finish. You may restore the look of the original finish by following the refurbishing guidelines below.

A KEY TO KEEPING YOUR COUNTERTOPS LOOKING GOOD IS TO THOROUGHLY RINSE AND WIPE COMPLETELY DRY AFTER CLEANING

Typically, three types of countertop finishes are used: matte/satin, semi-gloss and high-gloss*. Most countertops are finished with a matte/satin finish. All sinks have a matte finish. However, routine cleaning may raise the gloss level of the countertop over time. Soapy water, ammonia-based cleaners (Not window cleaners) or commercially available solid surface cleaners will remove most dirt and residue from all types of finishes. Stubborn residue will require a little stronger cleaner. Follow the recommendations below to properly clean your countertop and sink.

With over 100 colors and varying hues, some colors may appear to require more frequent cleaning to maintain their beauty. Darker colors tend to show fine scratches more easily and will require more attention than lighter colors. Over time through care and use your countertop will acquire a patina, changing the appearance of the finish. You may restore the look of the original finish by following the refurbishing guidelines on the next page.

*Contact your local Corian® sales expert if you are unsure of your finish.

Countertops

• Avoid getting the bleach solution in your eyes or bare skin. Always follow the bleach manufacturer’s safety instructions when working with bleach.
• To enhance the gloss level on semi-gloss and high-gloss finishes, use a countertop polish such as Countertop Magic®, Hope’s Countertop Polish® or Enhance Countertop Polish®.

Scotch Brite® is a registered trademark of 3M Company
Soft Scrub® is a registered trademark of The Dial Corporation
Countertop Magic® is a registered trademark of The Hope Co.
Enhance Countertop Polish® is a registered of Eastern Marble Co.

Preventing Heat Damage

While Corian® is heat resistant, as with all countertop materials, it is important to minimize direct heat exposure to protect your surface and investment.

Always use heat trivets or hot pads when placing hot objects on any surface. Always use a trivet under portable heat generating appliances such as a toaster oven. Allow cookware to cool before placing it into a Corian® sink.

Preventing Other Damage

In most cases Corian® can be repaired if damaged. Be sure to follow these guidelines to help you prevent any permanent damage to your Corian®.

• Avoid getting strong chemicals, such as paint removers, oven cleaners, etc., on your Corian® countertop. If a spill does occur, promptly flush the surface with water to fully rinse off the chemical.
• Do not cut directly on Corian® countertops. Use a cutting board.
• Boiling water alone will not damage your Corian® sink, however it is a recommended practice to run cold water from the faucet while pouring boiling water into the sink.

Removing fine scratches or a blotchy appearance

You may notice that the surface of your countertop begins to look blotchy. Typically, this is caused by leaving hard water to dry on the surface which will leave a film of minerals. To remove this film:

• Pour some mild abrasive liquid cleanser, such as Soft Scrub®, on a damp sponge or cloth and rub over area using small circular motions, from the front to the back, then side to side, overlapping the circles until the entire area has been cleaned.
• Thoroughly rinse the top with clean water and WIPE SURFACE COMPLETELY DRY.
• Check to see if blotchiness is gone. If not, repeat procedure applying more pressure on the sponge or rag.
• Continue over all affected areas until all film is removed.
• NOTE: While this procedure may remove or minimize the look of very fine scratches, other deeper scratches may remain. They may be removed by following the procedure below or you may with to hire a professional refinisher to refinish your countertop. Contact your Corian® Retailer or DuPont to arrange for professional refinishing.

Removing minor cuts and scratches*

Because the solid beauty of Corian® goes all the way through, Corian® surfaces are renewable. You can remove minor cuts and scratches yourself by following these instructions.

• First, wash the area where the scratch is located, following the instructions found in this guide, to remove any film on the surface as this film may clog the abrasive pads. With this surface still wet, start rubbing with the Peach colored side of the cleaning pad. Use a light touch. Pressing too hard may actually leave deeper scratches. Rub over the scratch using a straight line motion. Periodically switch rubbing direction ninety degrees. Rinse pad periodically during this process to remove any built up residue. Be sure all of the scratch is removed.
• Clean top with water and dry thoroughly. Check to see if sanded area blends with rest of top. Please note that sanded area may not perfectly match remainder of top. If necessary, turn pad over and repeat process. Rub over large area to blend in sanding.
• If needed, continue the sanding process using the Aqua colored pad and if necessary, the Gray colored pad until the desired gloss level is achieved.
• Rinse out all pads used and allow them to air dry before putting them away.
• An alternative to your refinishing your countertop, is to contact your Corian® retailer or DuPont to arrange for professional refinishing.

The allusion that seems to be made, that natural stone installed in your home is dangerous to your health is raised repeatedly on the website and in a recent local Houston TV news program.
It’s interesting to note that the two major contributors of this non-profit organization are manufacturers of engineered stone. One of those contributing manufacturers has a marketing executive on the board of directors for BuildClean.

From what may be perceived on the surface as perhaps another “going green” ad campaign, seems to be a different slant on the ongoing battle of the engineered stone manufacturers against natural stone.

Keep in mind that granite as does most natural components found in building material, allows vapors to pass through them that contain trace amounts of radon. There are very small amounts of uranium found in trace minerals such as biotite in natural stone which in big clusters give off a radon reading. As the result of this, if the area were to be enclosed and unventilated a higher emission could be the result. However, once a piece of granite or natural stone exposed to a large amount of biotite is removed from the ground and exposed to the air, the radon vapor transmission would dissipate. This is why the so called “evidence” brought forth by BuildClean is enclosed in an airtight plastic container.
We do endorse Radon testing but to allude that natural stone is a main contributor seems ludicrous.

Here are some facts about Radon:

WHERE DOES RADON COME FROM?

“Radon comes from the natural radioactive decay of radium and uranium found in the soil beneath the house. The amount of radon in the soil depends on complex soil chemistry, which varies from one house to the next. Radon levels in the soil range from a few hundred to several thousands of pCi/L. The amount of radon that escapes from the soil to enter the house depends on the weather, soil porosity, soil moisture, and the suction within the house”.

HOW DOES RADON GET INTO THE HOUSE?

“Houses act like large chimneys. As the air in the house warms, it rises to leak out the attic openings and around the upper floor windows. This creates a small suction at the lowest level of the house, pulling the radon out of the soil and into the house. You can test this on a cold day by opening a top floor window an inch. You will notice warm air from the house rushing out that opening; yet, if you open a basement window an inch, you will feel the cold outside air rushing in. This suction is what pulls the radon out of the soil and into the house. You might think caulking the cracks and the openings in the basement floor will stop the radon from entering the house. However, scientific studies show, it only takes enough unsealed cracks or pin holes in the caulking to equal a hole 1/2″ in diameter to let all the radon in. It is unlikely that caulking the accessible cracks and joints will permanently seal the openings radon needs to enter the house. The radon levels will still likely remain unchanged.
Fortunately, there are other extremely effective means of keeping radon out of your home. Throughout the country, several million people have already tested for radon. Some houses tested as high as 2,000-3,000 pCi/L; yet, there hasn’t been one house that could not mitigate to an acceptable level.

Levels of radiation from granite products, which technically are measurable, are in fact, small fractional values of established thresholds for environmental safety. The truth of the matter is that granite is a safe product. It’s been used for thousands of years and the relationship between granite and radon has been studied for years and years. How safe is granite? There have been mathematical models developed that show that one could live in an all-granite home or building, including sleeping on granite, for an entire year and still be within very safe levels of exposure.

Calculations show that, if an average countertop, traps an average uranium concentration of four ppm (parts per million), the concentration of radon that is given off by the countertop into the household air would be 270,000 times less than the level of radon in the outside air. The maximum contact level that you would receive over one year if you were to sit on a countertop all of the time would be about one quarter of the annual radiation from all sources. If you were just a few inches away from the granite (such as when doing the dishes), the dose would be too low to measure.

To Quote Donald Langmuir, PhD, Professor Emeritus of Geochemistry, Colorado School of Mines, & President, Hydrochem Systems Corp.
”To show how laughable are the concerns of radon emitted from natural stone, the typical granite countertop in our example will release 7.4 x 10 -7 pCi/L of air. This corresponds to 2.7 x 10 -8 atom decays per second (dps). This represents 0.85 decays per year. In other words, less than one atom of radon is produced by the countertop in one year. This is hardly worth getting excited about. I would suggest that a good way to reduce our exposure to the radon present in outdoor air would be to build an air-tight house out of granite countertops! There are certain properties of rocks that can increase their radon emanation efficiency, or in other words increase the release of radon from a given weight of rock. These are rock properties that maximize the exposure of internal or external rock surfaces to water or air, allowing any radon gas to escape. The author of ‘Granite and Radon’ argues that such properties, which include rock porosity, fissuring and mylonitization, will increase radon releases. This is probably true, however, a granite with such properties would be too brittle to make into a countertop, and too open to take a polish, and so would not be marketable as a countertop - unless the rock pores were first filled with a chemical sealant. Such sealing would also eliminate any possible radon release problems.”

In a more recent study that was conducted by L. L. Chyi, a Ph.D. and professor of Geochemistry and Environmental Geology at The University of Akron, Akron, Ohio. Dr. Chyi studied 13 of the most popular granites used throughout the United States as determined by an industry-wide survey. Due to their popularity these 13 granites, are believed to represent up to 85% of the granite countertop market in recent years. The granite types are as follows:

1. New Venetian Gold, Brazil; medium grained, yellow-beige gneiss with many dark red garnets
2. Uba Tuba, Brazil; A medium- to coarse grained, olive-green granite
3. Santa Cecilia, Brazil; A coarse-grained, yellow-grey gneiss with up to pie-sized, red garnets
4. Tropic Brown, Saudi Arabia; medium-grained, brown granite
5. Absolute Black, India; black basalt
6. Tan Brown, India; A black-brown igneous rock with big, shapeless, brown-red feldspar crystals
7. Giallo Ornamental, Brazil; coarse-grained, brown-yellow granulite with some brown-red garnets
8. Crema Bordeaux, Brazil; Juparana Crema Bordeaux (Brunello). A coarse- to very coarse-grained, pink to red granite with areas of quartz, alkali feldspar and quite a lot of ore
9. Baltic Brown, Finland; brown-black granite
10. Giallo Veneziano, Brazil; medium- to coarse-grained, ochre-yellow to golden-brown, also light pink, gneiss
11. Dakota Mahogany, USA; medium- to coarse-grained, brown-red granite
12. China Black, China, a fine-grained plutonic rock
13. Yellow Star, China, a medium-grained yellow to pink granite

The testing methodology was designed to measure the amount of radon which each granite type would add to the interior of a 2,000 square foot, normally ventilated home with 8 ft ceilings. The results show that Crema Bordeaux (the most active in terms of radon emissions) would contribute a concentration component of less than 0.28 pCi/L, or less than 7% of the EPA’s recommended actionable level of 4.0 pCi/L. This radon amount is well below a level which might cause health concerns. Tropic Brown and Baltic Brown, second and third in radon emanation based upon Dr. Chyi’s testing, amounted to only 1% of this action level. The other granites tested added almost immeasurable amounts of radon to the house.Radon atoms in pore spaces and fractures are of minimal concern in the case of granite countertops

Dr. Chyi’s test results show that the granites that are currently found in the United States’ market place are insignificant contributors to radon levels in the home. “Based on the testing results and EPA standards, we can conclude that the most popular granites used as countertop surfaces pose no health threat to homeowners. If proper resealing is applied once a year or at other frequencies determined by the industry,the radon emanation can be further reduced”.

Daniel J. Steck, Ph.D. also ran a test on interior radon and granite, and this is what he had to say.

“The average radionuclide contents of your building material samples are similar to other average granite samples and other common earth-derived building materials such as brick and soil. Thus, the amount of gamma radiation emitted from similar masses of these building materials will be approximately the same;

There is little sample-to-sample variation in the radon family radionuclide concentrations; the radon flux is somewhat larger for the counter-top squares than for the smaller samples. This indicates that the effective diffusion length is only on the order of the thickness of the counter-top samples, i.e. several centimeters. Thus, material thicker than 5 cm (2″) most likely will not emit more than the counter-top samples.

While we feel that health safety is a great concern especially in our homes, for an industry to attempt to gain financially by “scare tactics” or under the auspices of “ Eco friendly” is reprehensible.Until further independent study is done, we urge the consumer to not be taken in by these alarmist tactics.